But before there could be a Rolex Submariner, there had to be a Rolex Submarine.
While many collectors know that Rolex birthed the idea of the Oyster case, far fewer know that Rolex made at least four attempts to create a fully waterproof case before they introduced the Oyster: the Dennison, Semi-Hermetic and "full" Hermetic watches. Very few of these early, pre-Oyster watches designed for water resistance still exist.
Today's offering showcases their successful pre-Oyster waterproof watch, the "Submarine".
During World War I and in the years that followed, the public's idea of wristwatch changed dramatically. Soldiers, who had discovered how convenient it was to time strategic military operations at a simple turn of the wrist, began modifying their pocket watches, adding with soldered wire lugs a leather strap.
Hans Wilsdorf, one of the two founders of Rolex, was a visionary who early on saw the forthcoming demand for wristwatches. He wanted to produce some of the most reliable wristwatches on the market. But he knew that this required more than well-designed and made movements, and even certifying watches as chronometers - they also needed to be in cases fully protected from the elements.
Wilsdorf recalled telling his staff time and time again, “we must succeed in making a watch case so tight that our movements will be permanently guaranteed against damage caused by dust, perspiration, water, heat, and cold. Only then will the perfect accuracy of the Rolex watch be secured.”
Rolex had already tried having cases made by Dennison and by Borgel, two pillars of the case making trade at the time. At the time, Rolex was well-represented in East Asia with retailers in India and Burma.
Borgel was a true legend in pioneering waterproof watch cases, and he came up with a new design for a full hermetically sealed case. It utilized a three-piece case - body, bezel, and back - that was then enclosed in a larger case with a threaded lid. The outer case only had two pieces - a full body and the bezel, which screwed down like a jar. Hans Wilsdorf was so pleased with the design that he filed for a patent in London on May 10, 1923 and filed for three additional patents for model names. One was the Submarine - which became the main model name, and the second was the Hermetic.
Borgel's hermetic design proved successful and sold well in the East Asia market, evidenced by the surviving Hermetic's that bear retailer's names from those markets.
Within only a couple of years Borgel’s hermetic case was supplanted by the new Oyster case, which was patented in 1926. So finding a fine surviving Submarine / Hermetic remains a challenge.
The Submarine briefly appeared during an interesting era, when mankind was testing the boundaries of the known world and intrepid explorers were beginning to venture more beneath the surface of the ocean.
As Rolexes continue to appreciate in value, I think these early Oysters remain under appreciated and undervalued for their rarity and historical significance. I think a time will be coming when their value catches up with the importance and scarcity.
We were fortunate to acquire it with all of its original parts. Its 18K gold case of our very fine Submarine is in pleasing condition. The back has light rippling in the soft 18K metal. On the wrist it presents as just short of mint. Its dial has previously been flawlessly refinished.
Its Rolex movement is very high-grade - originally adjusted for a full six positions and for hot and cold. It is rated "Extra Prima." During this period, after assembly and testing, Rolex labeled their best performing movements with some version of the three-tiered "Prima" designation, and the extra prima was the penultimate.
Our Master Watchmaker has fully serviced the watch which consists of fully disassembling the movement, carefully inspecting each part, replacing any overly worn components with genuine Rolex replacements, reassembling and lubricating the movement, and extensive timing testing and regulation (a $745 value).
Don't miss the chance to add this incredibly rare and important Rolex to your distinguished collection.
- Manufacturer: Rolex
- Country of origin: Switzerland
- Year built: c. 1924
- Functions: Hours, Minutes, Subsidiary Seconds, Originally Waterproof
- Designed for: Men
- Case material: Solid 18K gold
- Case markings (inside): Swiss, 18K, F.B. (see note in case section above for information regarding Francois Borgel), 311,177
- Case condition: Pleasing condition. The back has light rippling in the soft 18K metal. On the wrist it presents as just short of mint.
- Dimensions: 32mm wide (excluding crown), 40mm long lug tip-to-tip
- Dial: Signed Rolex, white, subtle 'sunburst' guilloche pattern visible at certain angles, black painted Breguet numerals, previously perfectly refinished
- Hands: Original, blued steel batons
- Movement type: High grade, Rolex Rebberg 9 3/4''', signed Rolex and Swiss made, 15 ruby jewels
- Movement markings: Rolex, Swiss Made, 15 Jewels, Timed 6 Positions, For All Climates, Extra Prima
- Band: Top grain leather, Hirsch - one of Europe's fine band makers, designed for fixed lug use, like new
- Band width: 16mm
- Crystals: Outer - acrylic, excellent condition. Inner - mineral glass, excellent condition
- Servicing: Our Master Watchmaker has fully serviced the watch which consists of fully disassembling the movement, carefully inspecting each part, replacing any overly worn components with genuine Rolex replacements, reassembling and lubricating the movement, and extensive timing testing and regulation (a $745 value).
- Timing: Timed to precision on a state-of-the-art computerized system. Your watch is important to us, and we will take care of it for its lifetime. We provide the best after sale care in the business with an experienced team of four watchmakers all of whom each have over thirty-five years of experience and a large number of parts.
- Warranty: 1-year C.O.T. international warranty.
- Box/Papers: BOX - Connoisseur of Time watch presentation box; PAPERS - Custom printed Connoisseur of Time Certificate of Authenticity; New timing certificate
- Returns: 7 days full refund. 100% satisfaction guarantee
